Eneko Basque Brussels: intimate dining where you least expect it

A world-renowned culinary star, the chef Eneko Atxa was invited to reproduce his creative Basque concept in the atrium of the Radisson Collection Grand Place. Here is what we think of it.

We won't lie, the concept of the culinary franchise is one that frightens us. Because it consists of a top-down model that often clashes with the local environment. It was therefore with some apprehension that we paid a visit to the Radisson Collection Hotel Grand Place Brussels one Friday evening. We were all the more sceptical because we know that Brussels hotels will resort to almost any measure to attract local customers and because, on paper, the decor of the monumental atrium implies a cold dining experience.

Good news: the place is nothing like we had feared, at least once it has switched to evening mode. The intimacy and warmth are preserved by large lamps shaped like futuristic flying saucers, which make the ceiling seem less dizzyingly high and ensure that the sound system can be controlled to the decibel. Overall, the decor is classic, ringed with trendy back-lit photographs. The tables are spaced out to preserve privacy. In a stroke of inspiration, the menu is divided into small and large dishes, so that you can choose your order according to how hungry you are. We stuck to the smaller portions and ordered vegetable tartare (€7), Basque brioches stuffed with anchovy paste and smoked eel tartare (€12), pain de Cristal served with Joselito ham and Idiazabal cheese (€15), and Txistorra pork sausage (€12).

The level of quality was very high: comfort food with exceptional ingredients. There were pleasantly unexpected notes dotted throughout, such as the delicious beetroot sorbet in the vegetable tartare and the incredible crunchiness of the crust containing the anchovy paste. As well as these excellent dishes, they also have a remarkable wine list, especially for lovers of Spanish wines, which includes the marvellous Petalos del Bierzo (€60) and the striking Acustic Celler (€50).

Of course, a visit to this place is not easy on the wallet, as is often the case with tapas. The one drawback of the experience was that the service fell a little short of the concept. That said, we do not want to merely vent our frustrations without cutting them some slack; the team serving that night were so friendly and kind that it is impossible to hold it against them.

ENEKO BASQUE BRUSSELS
Wolvengracht 47 rue du Fossé aux Loups, Brussel/Bruxelles, 02-227.31.06, www.enekoatxabrussels.com
ma/lu/Mo > za/sa/Sa, 12 > 14.30 & 18.30 > 22.30