Hotspot: Saint-Servais & Josaphat
( © Steve Michiels)
A well-balanced mix of places to eat and drink has brought new life to a district you should really check out soon: the area around the Sint-Servaas/Saint-Servais church and the Josaphat park in Schaarbeek/Schaerbeek.
A well-balanced mix of places to eat and drink has brought new life to a district you should really check out soon: the area around the Sint-Servaas/Saint-Servais church and the Josaphat park in Schaarbeek/Schaerbeek.
(Le Barboteur © Ivan Put)
Linked by the splendid avenue named after Louis Bertrand, the area between the Sint-Servaas/Saint-Servais church and the Josaphat park is an attractive corner of Brussels. Awareness of its charms has attracted a growing number of outlets and some welcome new developments. We will start by picking out some of the decidedly contemporary bars and eateries. There are quite a few. Among the most recent, one worth a look is Le Barboteur, which stocks a range of beers and is also a place where you can have a bite to eat. Run by Sébastien and Jean-Thomas, it is chock-full of good ideas: nibbles produced by small local outfits (salt fish and meats and cheese), an extensive selection of bottled beers (Tournay Triple, Lupulus, Oude Geuze, and Belle Fleur from the Dochter van de Korenaar brewery in Baarle-Hertog, among others), a little library of books to be swapped, and special events. Among the latter are the “Tap Takeover” evenings, in which a micro-brewery takes over the taps to present its own beers.
Linked by the splendid avenue named after Louis Bertrand, the area between the Sint-Servaas/Saint-Servais church and the Josaphat park is an attractive corner of Brussels. Awareness of its charms has attracted a growing number of outlets and some welcome new developments. We will start by picking out some of the decidedly contemporary bars and eateries. There are quite a few. Among the most recent, one worth a look is Le Barboteur, which stocks a range of beers and is also a place where you can have a bite to eat. Run by Sébastien and Jean-Thomas, it is chock-full of good ideas: nibbles produced by small local outfits (salt fish and meats and cheese), an extensive selection of bottled beers (Tournay Triple, Lupulus, Oude Geuze, and Belle Fleur from the Dochter van de Korenaar brewery in Baarle-Hertog, among others), a little library of books to be swapped, and special events. Among the latter are the “Tap Takeover” evenings, in which a micro-brewery takes over the taps to present its own beers.
(Café Poussette © Ivan Put)
Opposite Le Barboteur, another new establishment opened up not long ago: Les Idées à la Pelle, an organic grocery-cum-cafe. Its speciality is Aurélia’s gluten-free dishes, washed down with a glass of birch juice. Not far from there, in a completely different genre, you will find the Café Poussette, a family-oriented operation that opened in 2012. The basic idea, the boss explains, is that “children play while their parents eat in peace or do their shopping.” Everything is done to facilitate families, from the attractive games room to the nappy-changing table in the toilets. Café Poussette also runs a series of courses for children, including DIY and an introduction to music, as well as for mothers-to-be, who can learn useful stuff like how to tie a baby sling.
Opposite Le Barboteur, another new establishment opened up not long ago: Les Idées à la Pelle, an organic grocery-cum-cafe. Its speciality is Aurélia’s gluten-free dishes, washed down with a glass of birch juice. Not far from there, in a completely different genre, you will find the Café Poussette, a family-oriented operation that opened in 2012. The basic idea, the boss explains, is that “children play while their parents eat in peace or do their shopping.” Everything is done to facilitate families, from the attractive games room to the nappy-changing table in the toilets. Café Poussette also runs a series of courses for children, including DIY and an introduction to music, as well as for mothers-to-be, who can learn useful stuff like how to tie a baby sling.
(Bar du Gaspi © Ivan Put)
At the end of Louis Bertrand, on Haachtsesteenweg/chaussée de Haecht, is an establishment that has become a classic, Bar du Gaspi, the cultural bar hereabouts, which often hosts exhibitions. Its terrasse – even though it is alongside the street – is very popular, as are its draught Zinnebir and generous tapas. And while we’re on that street, why not explore a little further, to the boundaries of the district, where you can find L’Estaminet. A little urban oasis dropped into the middle of Schaarbeek/Schaerbeek, it has a charmingly old-fashioned courtyard. The interior is equally delightful; with its wood panelling and old-style furniture, it takes you far away from the exhaust fumes of the city. The chef, Raphaëlle Muchery, comes up with delicious, creative dishes – a savoury crumble with cod, multi-coloured chard, potatoes, yoghurt sauce, courgettes, mint, and lettuce, for example – as well as straightforward sandwiches with enticing, delicious spreads. And that’s not to mention the desserts, including a lemon curd tiramisu, which are to die for. Don’t miss the monthly brunch, which makes an ideal family occasion.
At the end of Louis Bertrand, on Haachtsesteenweg/chaussée de Haecht, is an establishment that has become a classic, Bar du Gaspi, the cultural bar hereabouts, which often hosts exhibitions. Its terrasse – even though it is alongside the street – is very popular, as are its draught Zinnebir and generous tapas. And while we’re on that street, why not explore a little further, to the boundaries of the district, where you can find L’Estaminet. A little urban oasis dropped into the middle of Schaarbeek/Schaerbeek, it has a charmingly old-fashioned courtyard. The interior is equally delightful; with its wood panelling and old-style furniture, it takes you far away from the exhaust fumes of the city. The chef, Raphaëlle Muchery, comes up with delicious, creative dishes – a savoury crumble with cod, multi-coloured chard, potatoes, yoghurt sauce, courgettes, mint, and lettuce, for example – as well as straightforward sandwiches with enticing, delicious spreads. And that’s not to mention the desserts, including a lemon curd tiramisu, which are to die for. Don’t miss the monthly brunch, which makes an ideal family occasion.
(Belicia © Ivan Put)
There are two more places to check out if you fancy a treat. The first is Belicia, an unusual craft ice cream parlour, which really comes into its own when the weather is hot. Its austere decor may not look anything special, but the guy who runs it, who used to be an agricultural engineer, serves up an absolutely delicious fruits-of-the-forest yoghurt ice cream. The second is also located on place Colignonplein and goes by the name of The Place To. It’s a (certified) 92%-organic snack bar that works with seasonal vegetables and also offers a rather excellent, if non-organic, américain préparé. Its other attractions include a warm welcome from Pascale and a short but exceptional wine list that includes a Beaujolais from Julien Sunnier and Alsatian wines from Florian Beck-Hartweg. And the good news is that, at the end of August, The Place To will open a new outlet, just next door where the florist’s used to be, entirely devoted to wine. Culture with a capital C But the Sint-Servaas/Saint-Servais-Josaphat district has more to offer than just food and drink. It also caters for the mind and the soul, with a number of venues dedicated to culture. Although the famous Maison Autrique, an art nouveau milestone designed in 1893 by Horta, will, sadly, be closed until the end of the year, there are other trails to be explored. The École Communale n°1 at rue Josaphatstraat and Bijenkorfstraat/rue de la Ruche is the most celebrated example of the application of art nouveau to school architecture. A primary school, it is the masterpiece of the Schaarbeek/Schaerbeek architect Henri Jacobs. The facilities were extraordinary for their time: a gym hall, a swimming pool, a library, open-air playgrounds, etc. It cost the sum of 2 million Belgian francs, provoking some observers to wonder whether such an amount wasn’t excessive for the children of the plebs.
There are two more places to check out if you fancy a treat. The first is Belicia, an unusual craft ice cream parlour, which really comes into its own when the weather is hot. Its austere decor may not look anything special, but the guy who runs it, who used to be an agricultural engineer, serves up an absolutely delicious fruits-of-the-forest yoghurt ice cream. The second is also located on place Colignonplein and goes by the name of The Place To. It’s a (certified) 92%-organic snack bar that works with seasonal vegetables and also offers a rather excellent, if non-organic, américain préparé. Its other attractions include a warm welcome from Pascale and a short but exceptional wine list that includes a Beaujolais from Julien Sunnier and Alsatian wines from Florian Beck-Hartweg. And the good news is that, at the end of August, The Place To will open a new outlet, just next door where the florist’s used to be, entirely devoted to wine. Culture with a capital C But the Sint-Servaas/Saint-Servais-Josaphat district has more to offer than just food and drink. It also caters for the mind and the soul, with a number of venues dedicated to culture. Although the famous Maison Autrique, an art nouveau milestone designed in 1893 by Horta, will, sadly, be closed until the end of the year, there are other trails to be explored. The École Communale n°1 at rue Josaphatstraat and Bijenkorfstraat/rue de la Ruche is the most celebrated example of the application of art nouveau to school architecture. A primary school, it is the masterpiece of the Schaarbeek/Schaerbeek architect Henri Jacobs. The facilities were extraordinary for their time: a gym hall, a swimming pool, a library, open-air playgrounds, etc. It cost the sum of 2 million Belgian francs, provoking some observers to wonder whether such an amount wasn’t excessive for the children of the plebs.
(Huis der Kunsten/Maison des Arts Gaston Williot © Ivan Put)
A local jewel that you just have to see is the Huis der Kunsten/Maison des Arts Gaston Williot, which includes L’Estaminet, whose praises we have already sung above. You reach it through a passageway leading from the street into a courtyard, passing, along the way, an imposing fresco by Nicolas Moreel. A celebrity wall, decorated with street signs bearing the names of famous artists who have lived in the borough, reminds you that Schaarbeek/Schaerbeek is still a centre for the arts. The house, by the way, which dates from 1826, was built for one Charles-Louis Eenens, a rich Brussels cloth merchant. A listed building, it contains magnificent Louis XV and Louis XVI salons, while outside there is a splendid garden with a number of statues and an ornamental pool. One of the highlights of the interior is a mantelpiece decorated with Delft tiles. The Centre regularly hosts exhibitions.
A local jewel that you just have to see is the Huis der Kunsten/Maison des Arts Gaston Williot, which includes L’Estaminet, whose praises we have already sung above. You reach it through a passageway leading from the street into a courtyard, passing, along the way, an imposing fresco by Nicolas Moreel. A celebrity wall, decorated with street signs bearing the names of famous artists who have lived in the borough, reminds you that Schaarbeek/Schaerbeek is still a centre for the arts. The house, by the way, which dates from 1826, was built for one Charles-Louis Eenens, a rich Brussels cloth merchant. A listed building, it contains magnificent Louis XV and Louis XVI salons, while outside there is a splendid garden with a number of statues and an ornamental pool. One of the highlights of the interior is a mantelpiece decorated with Delft tiles. The Centre regularly hosts exhibitions.
(De Kriekelaar © Ivan Put)
And there are two places we can strongly recommend if you feel like taking a less passive approach to culture. De Kriekelaar, which is open to everyone, stages exhibitions, concerts, and plays and hosts various festive activities, including a Tuinfeest (“garden party”) with an aperitif and a barbecue. More generally, the centre aims to fulfil the role of being a “hub of urban life” and a meeting place for “everyone looking for conviviality, art, culture, and stimulating ways of spending their free time”. There is also the Centre Culturel de Schaerbeek, on rue de Lochtstraat, which offers a wide variety of activities. These include “Lire dans les parcs”, in which the organisers take to the parks with boxes of books in order to read stories to children – every Monday, for example, from 3 pm to 5 pm, near the bandstand in the Josaphat park.
And there are two places we can strongly recommend if you feel like taking a less passive approach to culture. De Kriekelaar, which is open to everyone, stages exhibitions, concerts, and plays and hosts various festive activities, including a Tuinfeest (“garden party”) with an aperitif and a barbecue. More generally, the centre aims to fulfil the role of being a “hub of urban life” and a meeting place for “everyone looking for conviviality, art, culture, and stimulating ways of spending their free time”. There is also the Centre Culturel de Schaerbeek, on rue de Lochtstraat, which offers a wide variety of activities. These include “Lire dans les parcs”, in which the organisers take to the parks with boxes of books in order to read stories to children – every Monday, for example, from 3 pm to 5 pm, near the bandstand in the Josaphat park.
(Beer Museum © Ivan Put)
Feel like something more lowbrow? Then head for the Schaarbeek/Schaerbeek Beer Museum, which has an impressive collection of objects relating to what can be done with barley and hops. The only drawback is the rather inconvenient opening hours. In a similar vein, although not so near and closed during the month of August, is the Distillerie Fovel, the oldest liqueur and gin distillery in Brussels. No fewer than five generations have passed down the secrets of making delicious drinks based on gin – Europe’s oldest alcohol – such as their Manneken-Pis Brussels gin, their Hasselt gin (that’s where the Fovel family originally came from), and an excellent gin made with traditional Schaarbeek/Schaerbeek griottes (morello cherries).
Feel like something more lowbrow? Then head for the Schaarbeek/Schaerbeek Beer Museum, which has an impressive collection of objects relating to what can be done with barley and hops. The only drawback is the rather inconvenient opening hours. In a similar vein, although not so near and closed during the month of August, is the Distillerie Fovel, the oldest liqueur and gin distillery in Brussels. No fewer than five generations have passed down the secrets of making delicious drinks based on gin – Europe’s oldest alcohol – such as their Manneken-Pis Brussels gin, their Hasselt gin (that’s where the Fovel family originally came from), and an excellent gin made with traditional Schaarbeek/Schaerbeek griottes (morello cherries).
(Josephat park © Ivan Put)
Greenery People have been heard to complain that Schaarbeek/Schaerbeek is short of green spaces. And it’s true. But in the Josaphat park, the borough has a green lung of no fewer than 22 hectares. In four different sections – the park at the bottom of the valley, the children’s section, the archery grounds, and the mini-golf course – the Josaphat park is beautifully landscaped, originally by the landscape gardener Edmond Galoppin. Containing a number of statues, rockeries, and recreational facilities, the park serves the whole borough. Alongside the archery grounds, you’ll find a favourite spot of ours: the bar/cafe of the Koninklijke Gilde Sint-Sebastiaan/Gilde Royale de Saint-Sébastien, more widely known as the Buvette Sint-Sebastiaan. This unpretentious establishment is an ideal place to forget the hustle and bustle of the city. And all the more so since it was taken over by Bernard Leboucq, one of the two guys who run the Brasserie de la Senne brewery. In addition to serving Brussels beers worthy of the name such as Jambe-de-Bois or Geuze Cantillon, the Buvette organises loads of events. At the Friday Fish Party, for example, at 6 pm, you can enjoy sole, prawns, cobia, and squid a la plancha.
Greenery People have been heard to complain that Schaarbeek/Schaerbeek is short of green spaces. And it’s true. But in the Josaphat park, the borough has a green lung of no fewer than 22 hectares. In four different sections – the park at the bottom of the valley, the children’s section, the archery grounds, and the mini-golf course – the Josaphat park is beautifully landscaped, originally by the landscape gardener Edmond Galoppin. Containing a number of statues, rockeries, and recreational facilities, the park serves the whole borough. Alongside the archery grounds, you’ll find a favourite spot of ours: the bar/cafe of the Koninklijke Gilde Sint-Sebastiaan/Gilde Royale de Saint-Sébastien, more widely known as the Buvette Sint-Sebastiaan. This unpretentious establishment is an ideal place to forget the hustle and bustle of the city. And all the more so since it was taken over by Bernard Leboucq, one of the two guys who run the Brasserie de la Senne brewery. In addition to serving Brussels beers worthy of the name such as Jambe-de-Bois or Geuze Cantillon, the Buvette organises loads of events. At the Friday Fish Party, for example, at 6 pm, you can enjoy sole, prawns, cobia, and squid a la plancha.
(Brusilia © Ivan Put)
The park also hosts Les apéros du Parc Josaphat, every Friday from 5.30 pm on, with live music, nibbles, festive drinks, etc. If it rains, the event moves to the les écuries van de Tram, a former tram depot that also hosts a weekly market with ten or so unusual producers and promoters of good food and drink. Vincent Damien, for example, who is an expert on small wine producers, the baker Benoît Segonds, and the market gardener Vincent Cantaert. You can also buy L’Heure Bleue tea there. All good stuff! To take leave of this attractive neighbourhood, one final recommendation: don’t miss the opportunity to get to the top of the Brusilia tower block. This architectural aberration at the park end of avenue Louis Bertrandlaan will be open to visitors on 27 August, thanks to the Patris non-profit association, when fifteen individuals will have a chance to enjoy a unique panorama of this fascinating corner of the city.
Don’t get lost.
• Bar du Gaspi Haachtsestwg. 309 chée de Haecht, 02-245.22.30, www.bardugaspi.com
• Beer museum av. Louis Bertrandln. 33-35, 02-241.56.27, users.skynet.be/museedelabiere
• Belicia pl. Colignonpl. 5, 0479-90.41.20
• Brusilia av. Louis Bertrandln. 100-104, 0476-77.65.36, www.brusilia.be
• Buvette Sint Sebastiaan parc Josaphatpark, av. Ambassadeur Van Vollenhovenln., www.buvettesintsebastiaan.com
• Café Poussette av. Louis Bertrandln. 22, 02-241.41.45, www.haricotmagique.be
• Centre Culturel de Schaerbeek rue de Lochtstr. 91-93, 02-245.27.25, www.culture1030.be
• GC De Kriekelaar rue Gallaitstr. 86, 02-245.75.22, www.dekriekelaar.be
• Distillerie Fovel rue Thiéfrystr. 69, 02-215.58.15
• Ecole communale n°1 rue Josaphatstr. 229-241 & Bijenkorfstr. 30 rue de la Ruche
• Le Barboteur rue Louis Bertrandstr. 23, 0470-83.21.72, www.facebook.com/lebarboteurbierotheque
• Les apéros du parc josaphat Azalealn./av. des Azalées, 0496-30.86.76, www.facebook.com/LesAperosDuParcJosaphat
• Les Ecuries van de Tram rue Rubensstr. 95, 0496-30.86.76, www.facebook.com/lesecuriesvandetram
• Les Idées à la pelle av. Louis Bertrandln. 25, 0473-11.05.65, lesideesalapelle.com
• l’Estaminet Haachtsestwg. 147 chée de Haecht, 0498-59.72.27, www.lestami.net
• Maison Autrique-huis Haachtsestwg. 266 chée de Haecht, 02-215.66.00, www.autrique.be
• Maison des Arts Gaston Williot Haachtsestwg. 147 chée de Haecht, 02-240.34.84
• The Place To pl. Colignonpl. 16-18, 02-243.08.33, www.theplaceto.eu
The park also hosts Les apéros du Parc Josaphat, every Friday from 5.30 pm on, with live music, nibbles, festive drinks, etc. If it rains, the event moves to the les écuries van de Tram, a former tram depot that also hosts a weekly market with ten or so unusual producers and promoters of good food and drink. Vincent Damien, for example, who is an expert on small wine producers, the baker Benoît Segonds, and the market gardener Vincent Cantaert. You can also buy L’Heure Bleue tea there. All good stuff! To take leave of this attractive neighbourhood, one final recommendation: don’t miss the opportunity to get to the top of the Brusilia tower block. This architectural aberration at the park end of avenue Louis Bertrandlaan will be open to visitors on 27 August, thanks to the Patris non-profit association, when fifteen individuals will have a chance to enjoy a unique panorama of this fascinating corner of the city.
Don’t get lost.
• Bar du Gaspi Haachtsestwg. 309 chée de Haecht, 02-245.22.30, www.bardugaspi.com
• Beer museum av. Louis Bertrandln. 33-35, 02-241.56.27, users.skynet.be/museedelabiere
• Belicia pl. Colignonpl. 5, 0479-90.41.20
• Brusilia av. Louis Bertrandln. 100-104, 0476-77.65.36, www.brusilia.be
• Buvette Sint Sebastiaan parc Josaphatpark, av. Ambassadeur Van Vollenhovenln., www.buvettesintsebastiaan.com
• Café Poussette av. Louis Bertrandln. 22, 02-241.41.45, www.haricotmagique.be
• Centre Culturel de Schaerbeek rue de Lochtstr. 91-93, 02-245.27.25, www.culture1030.be
• GC De Kriekelaar rue Gallaitstr. 86, 02-245.75.22, www.dekriekelaar.be
• Distillerie Fovel rue Thiéfrystr. 69, 02-215.58.15
• Ecole communale n°1 rue Josaphatstr. 229-241 & Bijenkorfstr. 30 rue de la Ruche
• Le Barboteur rue Louis Bertrandstr. 23, 0470-83.21.72, www.facebook.com/lebarboteurbierotheque
• Les apéros du parc josaphat Azalealn./av. des Azalées, 0496-30.86.76, www.facebook.com/LesAperosDuParcJosaphat
• Les Ecuries van de Tram rue Rubensstr. 95, 0496-30.86.76, www.facebook.com/lesecuriesvandetram
• Les Idées à la pelle av. Louis Bertrandln. 25, 0473-11.05.65, lesideesalapelle.com
• l’Estaminet Haachtsestwg. 147 chée de Haecht, 0498-59.72.27, www.lestami.net
• Maison Autrique-huis Haachtsestwg. 266 chée de Haecht, 02-215.66.00, www.autrique.be
• Maison des Arts Gaston Williot Haachtsestwg. 147 chée de Haecht, 02-240.34.84
• The Place To pl. Colignonpl. 16-18, 02-243.08.33, www.theplaceto.eu
All of the addresses above are located in the borough of Schaarbeek/Schaerbeek.
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