Resto: Certo

Unico has been replaced by Certo, a restaurant offering a minimalist vision of transalpine cuisine.

We have Federico Mazzoni to thank, a character half-way between Roberto Benigni and Nanni Moretti, and the man responsible for Gazzetta’s heyday. Roman by birth, he knows his stuff when it comes to natural wines and good-quality products. The only problem is that, like the owner of a traditional Lyons restaurant, he has a strong personality. If he likes the look of you, so much the better. If you’re the type of person that wants Parmesan on their vongole, too bad for you.

Fortunately, Mazzoni is accompanied by Kim, a young woman who came here from Marseilles and was discovered at Angelina. Her dazzling smile softens the rough edges. The decor in Certo was given a makeover by the Lhoas & Lhoas architectural practice, whose “less is more” approach mirrors the place’s intentions perfectly. White walls, shelving in straight lines, an integrated mini-kitchen, the visual language is effective. The menu is stripped to the minimum: five starters, three main courses, a plate of cheeses, and three desserts. There are no specials to lead you astray.

Having tried each of the starters, we were impressed by the filetto d’oca al bergamotto (€10 for the piccola version). This smoked fillet of goose with bergamot-infused olive oil achieves a very successful balance between rich, smoky, and sharp. We chose the classic – even cult – dish “Cacio e Pepe” linguine (€14). It was made, without the slightest compromise, alla Romana: pecorino, a good dose of freshly ground pepper added at the last moment, and pasta. No added cream, no supplementary salt, and, above all, no Parmesan. Exceptional.

What’s more, Mazzoni’s wine recommendations are sublime, including Casa Coste Piane Prosecco, a gem from the Dolomites by Elisabetta Foradori, and Passito Massa Vecchia. He also never forgets to ask what your budget is.

di/ma/Tu > vr/ve/Fr: 11.00 > 23.00