Resto: Tontons

We could write whatever we want, split hairs over the merits of the presence of a spice or a pinch of salt, but only one thing really matters when you go to a restaurant: would you go again? The answer must be an unambiguous “yes”. So, would we go to Tontons again? Definitely.

Not least because this establishment in Ukkel/Uccle has taken on the considerable challenge of restoring glory to spaghetti bolognaise, that underrated hybrid creation, born of the meeting of two cultures. In a stroke of genius, this undistinguished dish, until now reserved as a last resort for hungry nights, is given the royal treatment. Available in two sizes (€12/14), the delightful spaghetti “Bolo Tontons” succeeds in combining texture – genuine “al dente” – with the flavour of a tomato sauce rich in good-quality mince. Our only criticism would be of the presence of a few too many slices of carrot. As the sauce was well-balanced, it was unnecessary to have quite so many soft and sweet touches. But we are nit-picking.

Another pleasant surprise in this place is the availability of gluten-free pasta that ticks all the boxes. We tried out the version “with tuna” (€15), an unexpected treat for those who are intolerant to this protein composite. It was full of flavour, consisting of a mixture of tuna, capers, olive oil, and lemon zest. The experience was made all the more pleasant by the family bistro vibe. Dominated by a huge blackboard and scattered with marble-top tables, the place makes you feel right at home. It’s comfortable enough to make you want to take your time, especially given the fine bottles of wine on the menu, a prime example being the Cheverny (€27) by Philippe Tessier, a memorable 100% Sauvignon.

open: Mo, Th > Sa 18.30 > 22.00, Su 10 > 15.30 & 18.30 > 22.00