Joseph: fresh and comforting

Brasseries (bars-cum-restaurants) have been trying to reinvent themselves for a while. Joseph on Kasteleinsplein/Place du Châtelain offers delightfully fresh and light fare. 100% on trend.

A staple of the restaurant world, the brasserie has stood the test of time…after a fashion. Places that fall within category have been under enormous pressure for several decades. They are caught between their strict adherence to an outdated model, and the need to attract a clientele that is in tune with current trends. This great challenge has drawn a line between restaurants that have taken the bull by the horns and those that are foundering little by little as their clientele slowly dwindles. It is not easy for them, trying to please everyone, to walk this tightrope, balancing two contradictory aspirations.

We will leave you in suspense no longer: Joseph walks this gastronomic tightrope with a skip in his step. To start with, we love the decor; it is a chic and beautifully decorated eatery with an art deco 2.0 aesthetic throughout. The long space in blue and yellow tones is traditionally styled with felted benches and a small alcove containing a round table, the perfect place for an intimate celebration with a small group (6 people max). A utility duct, cleverly wrapped in black, crosses the space leading from the beautiful open kitchen in which the chef Fela Herzog presides.

The crammed but cultivated menu – tartare, ribs, burgers, half-chicken – is the work of Alex Joseph, the chef from Rouge Tomate. The Californian chef creates dishes that bridge the gap between fresh and comforting. This is especially true of the “In your dreams portobello” burger (€14), an invention that reflects the current trend towards vegetarianism. We were blown away by the sizeable grilled mushroom in place of meat. It was enhanced by the addition of pesto, scamorza cheese, and, best of all, sweet peppers, creating a dish with great depth of flavour.

To accompany this dish, we ordered “the beetroot” (€12), a colourful and slightly acidic combination of vegan blue cheese, pea shoots, rocket, and cooked beetroot, with coulis and pickles. The only drawback is that the wine list is far too conventional (a range priced from €30 to €85 that follows the AOC format); the masterful dishes called for some natural wines for intense and exciting pairings.

JOSEPH
Kasteleinsplein 47 place du Châtelain, Elsene/Ixelles, 02-468.07.64, www.joseph-resto.com
ma/lu/Mo > za/sa/Sa 12 > 14.30 & 19 > 23.00