Resto Yi Chan is shaking up Brussels' Chinatown

A new place is shaking up the city's little Chinatown: Yi Chan, which offers zesty cocktails, superb dim sum, and unforgettable pho soup.

Establishments dedicated to Chinese food are changing. The first wave of restaurant-owners is making way for a new and extremely gifted generation. The first chapter in this revolution is currently being written at Yi Chan.

Symbolically, Yi Chan means "heritage" and it consists of just that: a son following in his parents' footsteps. He is taking a fresh look at his family's history. The various Vietnamese options on the menu tell the story of his family's movements before they settled in Belgium. Thus, the dishes are presented under the banner of "Asian modern kitchen", the approach being broader than just Middle Kingdom cuisine.

With a red and natural slate background, the decor is free of pseudo-Ming kitsch. Less agreeably, a television casts its blueish light over the space. Still, we liked the backlit bar overlooked by shelves displaying a good selection of spirits. Cocktails are a speciality here. Having sampled a "mojito shiso" (€10), we can assure you that they are worth checking out. The mixture is striking, the mint substituted beautifully by a Japanese herb with aromatic citrus notes.

The starters are exquisite: namely, an assortment of dim sum (between €5 and €10). These steamed morsels are, unmistakably, freshly made. An explosion of tastes in the mouth attests to their freshness.

The same is true of the main course, pho soup (€13) with – unheard of in Belgium – matured beef. In a well-thought-out move, you add the stock yourself, in order to best bring out the flavours.

To our delight, dessert (€10), a weak point in many Chinese eateries, is a genuine art here: home-made coconut ice cream, complemented by diced mango, puffed rice, and a cinnamon biscuit – a brilliant take on mango sticky rice.

Yi Chan, rue Jules Van Praetstraat 13, Brussel/Bruxelles, 02-502.87.66, ma/lu/Mo, wo/me/We > vr/ve/Fr 11 > 16.00 & 18 > 1.00, w-e 11 > 1.00